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Thursday, February 27, 2014

Beauty Lighting for Stills and Video

Lighting Equipment



Trying New Things
I definitely fall into the category of photographers who get bored doing the same thing over and over again. Although I am often hired to shoot a style that my clients see on my website or portfolio, or shoot images for a repeat client the same way I shot the last assignment, I find it so important to have other tricks in my bag. At the NY Photo Expo show, I saw a nice opportunity to test drive two products from Photoflex.

One of my regular hair and makeup artists, Laura Dee Shelley, wanted to do another shoot with me for her portfolio, as well as a short video for her own social media promotion. This would be a great opportunity to try out the new NorthStar Lite, Photoflex’s 1000-watt equivalent LED light for the video, and the new SunLite Reflector 39x72” fabric for their LitePanel for the still shoot. I enlisted the video skills of Cam Camarena and we were fortunate to not only get a great location at one of Laura’s friend’s apartment, but also an amazing model.

Lighting for Video
Setting up the NorthStars for the video could not have been easier. Using the NorthStar Lite inside a Medium LiteDome as our key light serves as a nice soft light to the side of Laura. For a highlight/backlight accent, I added the second NorthStar Lite with just a reflector. The dimmer control on the NorthStar Lite is a great feature and allows for the lights to be set in place and controlled with one simple motion. Being someone who works a lot with portable lights, it was nice to be able to see the light as I was setting up as opposed to my usual educated guess.

I snapped a few shots of Laura as a still image. The NorthStar Lite has a really clean quality of light. Although it doesn't provide the same level of power as a strobe light and requires somewhat higher ISO settings for stills work, it's ideal for video, especially when you need to mix and balance with natural daylight.

As a bonus, we moved the NorthStar Lite and Medium LiteDome over when our model arrived and Laura was able to use it as her lighting for the makeup application.

Using the LitePanel as the Key Light
Always up for a challenge, I thought it would be interesting to bounce light into the panel and make use of the SunLite reflection, much in the way I would use it if I was outside and bouncing the sun into my subject on a location shoot. The only big difference is that I would rarely use a LitePanel as the key light. With so many options with the various OctoDomes and LiteDomes, this would not generally be my choice. However, with smaller wattage lights, power can get eaten up with the modifier’s baffles. Would this create a soft light similar to an OctoDome or LiteDome? I wanted a clean light, and wanted the feel of an overcast sky that would have a little punch to it.

Initially, I went for about a 45 degree angle with the LitePanel and placed two TritonFlashes with reflectors a few feet from the panel. I didn’t love the effect, it felt almost “too flashy” (if that makes sense), so for the next frame I flattened out the LitePanel to be more like a 20 degree pitch. This also didn’t work, so I went back to the 45 degree pitch with the LitePanel and tried aiming the TritonFlash heads toward the outside of the LitePanel. Fail. Next, I tried pointing both TritonFlashes toward the center of the LitePanel and again was not happy.

Now, I’m well aware that it would have been so easy to just take my Photoflex 7’ OctoDome and set it at a high angle above my subject as I have done so many times before. But again, I didn’t want to do the same old thing again. Fortunately, I did not have a client breathing down my neck and our subject was not ready yet, so I still had time. For my final attempt, I moved the TritonFlash heads away from the LitePanel and aimed back at even parts of the LitePanel fabric. One final test shot of Cam and… SUCCESS! As a bonus, we pointed the other NorthStar into the LitePanel as a modeling light. Emily stepped on set and you have to love when the first frame is a winner.

While we were shooting, the sun poked around the building and we started to get shadows on the wall and subject. It was actually nice light, but a problem for our purposes. We turned the TritonFlash heads up two stops and the nice clean light coming from the LitePanel eliminated the shadows.

What we do with artificial light is essentially recreating what the sun does naturally, whether through a cloud, directly or indirectly hitting a subject, and every other variation. Always keeping an eye on that opens up more and more ideas about how to manipulate all the wonderful lighting tools that are out there today.

Camera Gear Used
Canon 5D Mark III
Canon 85mm, f/1.8 lens
Canon 135mm, f/2.0 lens
Pocket Wizard transceivers
Sekonic flash meter


Written and photographed by Ian Spanier
Video and assistance by Cam Camarena

Hair and Makeup by Laura Dee Shelley
Modeled by 
Emily W One.1
Co-produced and edited by Benjamin Clay

To see more of Ian Spanier's work, visit his Pro Showcase page.


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Lighting Equipment


On March 03, 2014 at 05:34 PM, William Shackelford said:

Nice, like to see someone trying something new to get the same effect.

On March 03, 2014 at 07:55 PM, Patrick Gooden said:

Ian, this was well done. I was wondering if there could have been another light brought in, about 1 stop under to fill in some more of the shadow under her chin? It would be interesting to see how that would work. nonetheless you have a great shot here.

On March 03, 2014 at 09:50 PM, Tom Laye said:

I liked the way you experimented until you got the specific look you wanted.  I too often settle before I get where I want.  Watching you tells me I can get there if I don’t give up to soon.


On March 04, 2014 at 10:28 AM, LUIS RAMOS said:

congratulation that job looks nice, i know triton light is a nice choice, for us in my country the price is to much.
Probably if you make another one small, coud be better for us.

On October 13, 2015 at 05:25 AM, Lenny said:

Great tutorial as always! Keep up the good work
- quality garden furniture

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